6. The Manifold Valley – more than just a cycle track
Taking a stroll or a bike ride along the Manifold Trail, it’s not hard to imagine the track in its former heyday as the Leek and Manifold Light Railway; the carriages meandering their way through the limestone gorge, steam coursing through the air behind them.
It may no longer see passengers by train, but this deep limestone valley carved between steeply wooded slopes and towering rock pinnacles, attracts lovers of the great outdoors these days on foot or bicycle.
The former railway track is now the Manifold Trail - also called the Manifold Way and the Manifold Track - and runs for 9 miles between Hulme End in the north and Waterhouses in the south.
Cyclists might be tempted to whizz along this mainly level, highly accessible path, but then they’ll miss the host of natural attractions and historical sites it offers along the way.
Rivers underground
The stunning views soar up and up as walkers, cyclists and horse riders follow the course of the River Manifold and its tributary, the River Hamps. These two rivers have perplexed visitors for years - as they silently carve their way through the Staffordshire countryside.
The rivers are unusual as they disappear in sink holes beneath the porous limestone, leaving a rocky stone bed, and only re-surface as a fully flowing river miles further south through boil holes in the National Trust’s Ilam Park.
Whist mention of the Manifold Valley conjures up images of the disused railway, the valley offers lots of places to see and things to do for a great Staffordshire Moorlands summer’s day out.
Cavernous Caves
The favourite attraction on the route must be the magnificent Thor’s Cave, a natural light-filled cavern formed in a limestone crag, its huge, arched entrance a striking image easily seen from the footpath way below.
Evidence has been found in Thor’s Cave of human occupation 10,000 years ago, during the Stone Age, well into the Iron Age and Roman period. Past excavations have found stone tools, pottery, amber beads and bronze items, as well as the burial sites of at least seven people.
Reached by climbing up hundreds of steps off the main trail, Thor's Cave is well worth the tough ascent for its magnificent views across the valley.
There are several other caves waiting to be explored along the track where excavations have found Neolithic and Bronze Age remains. But great care should be taken when visiting – there are very steep, unguarded drops from the entrances, and the surfaces can be slippery.
Strange traditions
Not far from Thor’s Cave is the beautiful village of Wetton. It has everything you could hope for from a Moorlands village: pretty stone cottages on twisty lanes, horses’ heads bobbing over old farm gates, an ancient church, endless walks and breathtaking views.
Don’t leave without a visit to the Royal Oak pub, a cosy inn with a roaring log fire. It serves traditional ales and home-cooked food and is famous for its world toe wrestling championships, held in August each year - a well-loved, if strange, local tradition for 50 years.
Those interested in history shouldn’t leave without a visit to Long Low, just south of Wetton. This ancient burial site has two large, round cairns linked together – a structure that has never been seen elsewhere in England. Excavations in the 19th Century revealed a neolithic burial chamber, paved with limestone, entombing the bones of thirteen people.
From Wetton a variety of walks covering different terrains can take you back down the hill to the Manifold Trail, passing Beeston Tor, a limestone cliff popular with climbers. Cross over the stepping stones at Weag’s Bridge and take the road up to Grindon or pass through Old Souls Wood and Hell Hole. Or carry on uphill from Wetton around Wetton Hill with its numerous tumuli and up to the top of Ecton Hill. It’s hard going on the legs and lungs to the OS triangulation point at the top, but the views are as breathtaking as the hike.
The walk back down through a lushly green dale takes you past the interesting sugarloaf hill and brings you out at the highly popular Wetton Mill Tearooms to top up your flagging energy levels. It is just one of the many refreshment opportunities en route, including the Manifold Inn and the Tea Junction at Hulme End and a very popular ice cream van near Thor’s Cave.
The track is surfaced and fairly flat throughout its length, making it ideal for wheelchair users, those with buggies or prams and people with limited mobility, and there are toilets along the way too.
There is ample parking at both ends of the track and cycle hire is available from Manifold Station Hire in Waterhouses.