5. The Magic and Mystery of Lud’s Church
Nothing sums up the magic and the mystery to be found in the Staffordshire Moorlands quite like Lud’s Church. This is a place like no other.
Here you will fill your senses with damp, earthy smells and rich sights, surrounded by emerald-green ferns and dark, velvet moss.
Lud’s Church is not what you initially think – it isn’t a church for a start, but a moss-covered chasm, hidden away in Staffordshire’s Back Forest, close to the Roaches and Leek.
The cleft was created in the Roaches’ gritstone by a giant landslip, which, over the ages, has been covered from top to bottom in vibrant moss.
It is a dark green grotto full of history and myths and to walk down its stone steps deep into the 18 metres high cleft is to escape into another world. Let the silence envelop you as a wooden boardwalk takes you through the ancient 100 metres long gorge.
Hidden Places
History has it that Lud’s Church was used as a secret place of worship in the 15th century by reforming Christians, the Lollards, followers of the ‘heretic’ John Wycliffe. It is possible that it was named after Walter de Lud Auk, who was captured at Lud’s Church during one of their meetings.
You can certainly imagine it as a hiding place and early legends claim Robin Hood and Friar Tuck used its deep, dark stone walls to evade capture.
Lud’s Church is well worth the trek up from the Dane valley through woodland trees, and the tracks are well-marked. Eagle-eyed bird lovers may spot goldcrests, finches and peregrines soaring high above the gritstone hills or hear rare red grouse across the heather. Wellies are recommended whatever the time of year as the chasm is wet and cool even on the hottest of days.
There is a picturesque riverside café at Gradbach Mill, overlooking the Rive Dane, the perfect place to relax after the hike. The takeaway-style café is open from Easter to October and offers a variety of snacks, including Staffordshire oatcakes.
Lud’s Church is easily accessible from car parks at the Roaches, the Back Forest and Gradbach Mill. During the busy peak season, car parking may be limited, and visitors are advised to arrive early and refrain from parking on the roads.